Arachnid English Mark Darts Series 6000 Manual
Don't use any other number of lamp as the lamp driver circuitry will be damaged. The 'throw darts' and 'remove darts' lights are #2182D lamps with the wire leads. The most common problems with this series dart machines are the power supply assembly which loves to eat bridge rectifiers and the target head assembly which will cause the game to lock up if if stuck tips hold any switch stuck 'on' (closed ). Later, the 'Super Spider' target head was introduced which used a thin 'spider' and larger segments.
This gameboard only outputs black & white graphics, but it does look better on a bigger tv set though. There's a battery backed Dallas ram chip on the gameboard that's old enough now to be losing memory due to the internal battery dying. Read your later 6000 series manual about the 'Spider Writer' attract mode text stuff about clearing the garbage and random characters out of the memory.
This is an ENGLISH MARK DARTS SERIES 5000 Arcade Machine Game PARTS MANUAL #1156 for sale by ARACHNID. If there is more than one available, this picture is similar to the one you will receive. INTRODUCTION This manual contains assembly, operation and troubleshoot-ing information for Arachnid, Inc’s English Mark Darts Gal-axy Series dart game.
Follow it's black wires underneath the chassis to the lamp dimmer circuit board. Now cut off the black wires an inch or two away from the board. Butt splice an 18 gauge stranded wire to each of the black wires you just cut on that board.
Started to think about this and I'm guessing that some of the broken tips may be somehow registering.not sure why it's not a 'all the time' sort of thing, but I removed the easy to grab tips out and I'm thinking about removing the back to remove the few jammed, hard to pull tips out. Who knows what else is between the board and the sensor? I also played a minute with the spider writer, confirmed I can add text.(didn't plan anything out but the junk I put out stayed, I'll have to read up on how to clear the screen to put my own text in. If anyone has removed the back to remove broken dart tips I'd appreciate any advice.I'm a little nervous to do this but I'll read whatever manuals I can find to do it.
Cabinet graphics still mostly black. Manufactured in 1988. Models 6200 & 6300 are the Super Six Plus II (last model). Cabinet graphics are now mostly yellow with black highlights. Manufactured in 1989. All the lighted pushbutton switches use #658 (12 volt) wedge base lamps.
The reason for this is that the monitor, amplifier, and coin door lamps/gameboard lamps/pushbutton lamps all run on the 12 volts. Remove the old circuit board that's screwed to the big blue capacitor. Remove the big blue electrolytic capacitor and it's mounting bracket. Remove the power transformer. Follow it's black wires underneath the chassis to the lamp dimmer circuit board. Now cut off the black wires an inch or two away from the board. Butt splice an 18 gauge stranded wire to each of the black wires you just cut on that board.
That answers a lot of my questions. Thanks for the tips re: the lights, they all currently work but it's good to know, as well as the no free play mode.
If it locks up again during game over (attract mode), unplug the target interface board from the gameboard. Now wait a couple of minutes to see if the game over attract mode resumes. If it does then the problem is in the target head. If it does not, the the problem is either the +5 volts from the power supply is too high or too low, or else the gameboard itself has problems. If the gameboard is suspected, the problems I used to see on it were either the cold solder joints on the connector header pins (usually on the power input connector) or the video ram chips and/or the video graphics processor chip have gone bad. I read a bunch of old posts about this and it seems to be pretty common. I am gonna start with the green caps on the Power Supply since I have them here ready to go.
Board Illustrated Parts List with I.C. Locations Main P.C.
Any contact info? I've currently got 3 Merit Pub Time machines. One had bad screen burn on the monitor, and the other 2 were missing monitors. I managed to get 3 NOS monitors on eBay a while ago. 2 of them were Omni Vision monitors from the Arachnid dart games, and the 3rd is a Samsung, and I don't know what it came from. The 2 Arachnid monitors work great in the Pub Time games as they don't need a sync run to them. They only need a ground, power, and video line to the connector.
Connect all the +12 volt (pins 5, 7, and 8) AND the +21 volt (pin 2) wires to the +12 volt terminal on the new power supply. The +21 volts was for the audio amplifier which will work fine on the +12 volt connection. Two common cabinet related fixes: The plastic 'tips' of the hinges break off allowing the front tip down panel to flop all over the place.
I am hoping to get both dart boards working and then sell the second. I really can't wait to play this thing! My wife and I played the heck out of these back in the day. First thing to check is the power supply +5 volts. Second thing to check is all in the target head: Broken tips, cracked segments (usually the pie wedge ones), or a dirty rubber damper holding a switch closed inside the switch matrix. When the game locks up again, does it lock up in the game over (attract) mode or while playing, or both? If it locks up again during game over (attract mode), unplug the target interface board from the gameboard.
The second dart board I have had a 6000 board in it (no dip switch). So, I stuck that board in. Oddly, it has a newer 2.7 ROM while my 6300 board has a 2.2. The 6000 board has been rock solid all night. Hasn't locked up once. But, I want that 6300 board so I can enable double bull (one of my dart boards is a double bull one.) So, I swapped what I think are the two video RAM chips (are the video ram chips the TMs4416 memory chips?) and the TMS9118 video chip from the 6000 to the 6300 board.
Of these, 14 of them are original dedicated machines, and one is a set of circuit boards which a collector could put into a generic case if desired. For Sale - There is one active VAPS member with a. Wanted - No active members have added this machine to their wish list. This game ranks a 0 on a scale out of 100 (100 = most often seen, 1= least common) in popularity based on census ownership records. Rarity and Popularity independently are NOT necessarily indications of value. Foto-Finder (books) •, Kurtz (ISBN ): Page: 90; Color photo; Video Clips Arachnid English Mark Darts Super Six Plus II Arcade Gameplay Review - Super 6 P Added to Other Records Contribute • to this machine record.• Log in to add YouTube or Google 3D SketchUp links and/or Billboard Magazine references.• Please consider donating to the eBay ListingsClick to search for English Mark Darts Arcade machines and related items. Click to search for machines and parts made by Arachnid Inc.
There are changes to the gameboard in order to use the Super spider head. It is shown in a service bulletin Arachnid issued. Wow, thanks for all the info Ken. It is much appreciated.
I didnt even solder mine i just used thin wire stuck it inside the connector then plugged it back in to make a tight connection. Iirc one of my old ad600s kept acting up and the video ram was running hella hot.
There is no fuse. So, where do I go from here?
But hey, It's working again! Gameboard dip switch should be added if it is not presently installed on the gameboard. More games were added in the software chip in later models. Coin/credit board was not in the 6000 (Super Six), but is in the 6100, 6200, and 6300 series. If the plastic 'tips' of the hinge break off, they can be fixed cheap & easy by drilling a small starter hole and putting a screw in it. If the clear plexiglass monitor cover breaks it's retainers off and the plexi flops around, you can fix it by drilling starter holes into the black plastic housing and putting in short sheet metal screws from the rear.
Capacitor C9 on that power supply board is on the +12vdc line running the video monitor. This is a high failure item. Originally it was a 1 uf @ 25 volts.
To fix it just drill a small starter hole like 3/32' diameter and screw in a 1' long sheet metal or drywall screw. See the picture (sorry it's a little blurry).
Butt splice an 18 gauge stranded wire to each of the black wires you just cut on that board. The wires should be about a foot long for each one. These will be the AC power wires to the new switching regulator power supply.
Even if you get a non working model, the circuit is incredibly simple, and spare parts show up on eBay all the time. If you get one that needs work, feel free to PM me and I'll help you out if I can. Ok, picked up a Super 6 Plus II, working in really good (IMO) condition. Everything seems to work on it, all lights, sounds, the dartboard seems to respond to every area (tested with finger flick), plus keys and a series 6000 manual. Shivam tamil serial full episode. Everything for under $150 (which I am very happy about). Thanks for the responses!
Wow, thanks for all the info Ken. It is much appreciated. That answers a lot of my questions.
I picked up two Super Six dart boards and I want to get one working using the two. I know nothing about these or where to begin. I can't seem to find a manual or anything online. They look like this (heads were removed for transport): The nicest dart board (and the one I am going to make work) had a label on it that said 'dead monitor'. So, I was hoping I would get it to at least play blind. When I plug it in, it does nothing. I think the Power Supply is bad.
That answers a lot of my questions. Thanks for the tips re: the lights, they all currently work but it's good to know, as well as the no free play mode. Everything seems to work, but about 20 minutes ago I flipped it on and got the 'bullseye' noise every other second and the screen had some garbled letters, if I hit reset I could get the noise to stop until I tried to enter a coin, then it would start again.
I also took apart the double bull board and cleaned it up. It is a double bull board (that's what it says on the back) but doesn't have the double bull insert. So, I need to get that. Where can I buy the LED lamps and sockets that go in the main PCB for the throw darts and remove darts lights? I am missing one and the ones I have are not too bright.
User Manuals Arachnid Dart Board
I am sure I could get it to work with great effort and some jumpers. I found a couple guys selling working power supplies. I should be getting them next week. If I need anything, I'll let you know. I am hoping to get both dart boards working and then sell the second. I really can't wait to play this thing! My wife and I played the heck out of these back in the day.
I have scanned more of my English Mark Dart 6000 series and Galaxy series manuals & schematics. The 6000 series equipped with the 'Super Spider' target head must use game eprom chip U15 with version 3.0 or later.
Ok, picked up a Super 6 Plus II, working in really good (IMO) condition. Everything seems to work on it, all lights, sounds, the dartboard seems to respond to every area (tested with finger flick), plus keys and a series 6000 manual. Everything for under $150 (which I am very happy about). Thanks for the responses!
Thanks for the tips re: the lights, they all currently work but it's good to know, as well as the no free play mode. Everything seems to work, but about 20 minutes ago I flipped it on and got the 'bullseye' noise every other second and the screen had some garbled letters, if I hit reset I could get the noise to stop until I tried to enter a coin, then it would start again. Got worried that my working game had some latent problems that were now surfacing. I shut it down and restarted it and it seems to have cleared up. Not sure what that was, but I hope it doesn't lead to anything permanent. Last I tried everything looked and responded perfectly. Oh well, thanks again for filling in the gaps for me!
English Mark Darts Name: English Mark Darts Manufacturer: Year: Type: Arcade Class: Wide Release:: • Upright/Standard (Sits on the floor and is coin-) Click to contribute another image. English Mark Darts Description English Mark Darts was produced by Arachnid Inc. Arachnid Inc. Released 7 different machines in our database under this trade name, starting in 1985. Other machines made by Arachnid Inc.
I really can't wait to play this thing! My wife and I played the heck out of these back in the day. First thing to check is the power supply +5 volts. Second thing to check is all in the target head: Broken tips, cracked segments (usually the pie wedge ones), or a dirty rubber damper holding a switch closed inside the switch matrix. When the game locks up again, does it lock up in the game over (attract) mode or while playing, or both? If it locks up again during game over (attract mode), unplug the target interface board from the gameboard. Now wait a couple of minutes to see if the game over attract mode resumes.
The retainers holding the clear plexiglass cover for the monitor break off allowing it to flop all over the place. Drill a 3/32' hole all the way through the black plastic front panel. Then run a # 6 by 1/2' long sheet metal screw in there from the inside.
Can anyone point me to any info on the web re: manuals, what the 'plus II' is or anything? Does this model have a 'free play' mode or do I have to wire up a button to the coin door? Thanks again. Here's the link to the manufacturer's site with manuals and technical bulletins: Click on 'Archive'. Once there check out 'Archive Contents' -> '6000 series' and 'Tech Tips'. Here is the latest link to Super 6 manuals: The longtime game operator I used to work for had over 100 of these machines on the route. Super 6's are collectivelly known as the 6000 series.
Thanks Cadillac too. Jusat get a pc type 12 volter and hook it up to the 12v on the ps.
I picked up two Super Six dart boards and I want to get one working using the two. I know nothing about these or where to begin. I can't seem to find a manual or anything online. They look like this (heads were removed for transport): The nicest dart board (and the one I am going to make work) had a label on it that said 'dead monitor'. So, I was hoping I would get it to at least play blind. When I plug it in, it does nothing. I think the Power Supply is bad.
Second, with the Galaxy 2 software work on an English Mark board? My guess is that it won't, probably some hardware issues there. Lastly (for now, is there anyway to get color display instead of just black/yellow? If you got a Super Six Plus 2, that would be a model 6200 or 6300 and should have a 'Coin/Credit' board installed.
Is there a site that has the manuals? Is there a site selling parts for these still?
Even if you get a non working model, the circuit is incredibly simple, and spare parts show up on eBay all the time. If you get one that needs work, feel free to PM me and I'll help you out if I can. Ok, picked up a Super 6 Plus II, working in really good (IMO) condition. Everything seems to work on it, all lights, sounds, the dartboard seems to respond to every area (tested with finger flick), plus keys and a series 6000 manual. Everything for under $150 (which I am very happy about). Thanks for the responses!
Cabinet Style Weights and Measures Type Upright/Standard (Sits on the floor and is coin-) VAPS Arcade/Coin-Op English Mark Darts CensusThere are 10,162 members of the, 8,250 whom participate in our arcade census project of games owned, wanted, or for sale. Census data currently includes 135,780 machines ( 6,018 unique titles). Uncommon - There are 15 known instances of this machine owned by who are active members. Of these, 14 of them are original dedicated machines, and one is a set of circuit boards which a collector could put into a generic case if desired. For Sale - There is one active VAPS member with a. Wanted - No active members have added this machine to their wish list. This game ranks a 0 on a scale out of 100 (100 = most often seen, 1= least common) in popularity based on census ownership records.
The 'electronics drawer' tilt down front and the dart machine wooden back door should both be a C-415A key. The coin door is always keyed differently from everything else so there could be just about any old lock and key on it.
So, I need to get that. Where can I buy the LED lamps and sockets that go in the main PCB for the throw darts and remove darts lights?
Thanks again. Here's the link to the manufacturer's site with manuals and technical bulletins: Click on 'Archive'. Once there check out 'Archive Contents' -> '6000 series' and 'Tech Tips'. Here is the latest link to Super 6 manuals: The longtime game operator I used to work for had over 100 of these machines on the route. Super 6's are collectivelly known as the 6000 series.
I picked up two Super Six dart boards and I want to get one working using the two. I know nothing about these or where to begin.
I am missing one and the ones I have are not too bright. Anyways, I am gonna leave the board on for an hour or so and see if it locks up. I think I fixed this thing with your guidance, Ken!! Thanks Cadillac too.
Connect all the GROUND wires of the game wiring harness (pins 1, 3, 9, and 10) to the Common terminals on the new supply. Connect all the +12 volt (pins 5, 7, and 8) AND the +21 volt (pin 2) wires to the +12 volt terminal on the new power supply. The +21 volts was for the audio amplifier which will work fine on the +12 volt connection.
Turned out both had a bad RAM that cost about $2. Got both working, sold one on eBay for $300ish, then found a Galaxy machine for $250 and sold the other one on eBay. Turned out that I ended up $250 ahead with a better dart machine than I started with.
Have tried two different power supplies with same results.
I checked and it looks like I do have the video out on the game board.not sure I would use this but it's nice to know. Had the game plugged in for about 30 mins and the problem surfaced again.
Had the game plugged in for about 30 mins and the problem surfaced again. The sound was the same as when you throw a dart in the board without any quarters in it (but it plays continually). Started to think about this and I'm guessing that some of the broken tips may be somehow registering.not sure why it's not a 'all the time' sort of thing, but I removed the easy to grab tips out and I'm thinking about removing the back to remove the few jammed, hard to pull tips out. Who knows what else is between the board and the sensor? I also played a minute with the spider writer, confirmed I can add text.(didn't plan anything out but the junk I put out stayed, I'll have to read up on how to clear the screen to put my own text in.
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Arachnid English Mark Darts Manual
(The front of the cabinet says 'Super 6 plus ll'). The board on the top of the blue capacitor has a label that says '01986 Arachnid inc. 0' The part labeled BR1 on this board looks burnt. I see in the manual that this is a Bridge Rectifier 8A 200PIV.